The call of the desert dunes

Heavy metal: A vintage Land Rover

I am outside surrounded by rolling dunes of sand somewhere in Qatar. It is just before midday and it is 41 degrees, a heat fuelled by a powerful sun unencumbered by even a hint of cloud. The only tracks I can see are those of a desert fox, some unidentified birds and the distinctive treads of around half a dozen Land Cruisers — all long gone now.